The Nezumi Loews Chronograph is housed in a solid 316L brushed Stainless Steel case with hints of polishing on the twisted shaped lugs in a 40MM Diameter case. The watch has just the right dimensions for an everyday wear and use with a very retro look. The watch itself is named after a legendary hotel in Monaco on the grand prix racing circuit called the Loews in the 1970s near the famous hairpin turn. As you can probably tell, the owner of this brand is indeed a car and racing enthusiast and it definitely shows in his watch designs. Other basic specifications include a slim 11.75MM case thickness with a very wearable 47MM lug to lug distance paired with 20MM lug widths. The watch features a custom beautiful Nezumi machined caseback which is screwed down with their famous branding and specifications as well. This chronograph features a screw down signed nezumi crown and is water resistant to 50M, so not one to take in the water - But I would not be afraid washing your hands or getting caught in the rain. Overall, the case cut seems precise and clean, and the piston head style pushers are a pleasure to function as they are just the right size for this case.
The nice blue pastel color dial definitely exudes retro at a glance and is executed perfectly. This dial features polished applied hour indices, a racing Tachymetre scale, and a 60 minute chronograph / 24 HR subdial. As you can see, a whole lot of information can be obtained and utilized from such a compact and clean symmetrical design, which shows really good design work from my perspective. The crystal itself is a double domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the underside which is the best way honestly to coat a crystal for increased legibility in all lighting conditions. There also is a bit of superluminova on the hands and small circles outside the applied indices which is helpful for reading the time at night. I like the overall symmetry , unique colors such as the Pastel and orange chronograph hand - I believe it is quite well executed at all angles.
To keep costs down and bring an affordable chronograph without using an automatic caliber such as the 7750 - Nezumi went for the Seiko VK63 mechanical quartz movement. Well...what is it? This movement basically is the best of both worlds and features a couple jewels as well as a smooth chronograph sweeping hand just as an automatic chronograph would sweep. It does all this but still keeps that great accuracy of a quartz movement as it is powered by a battery. I have owned several watches with this exact movement, and I must say not once has this movement failed me.
Vegetable Tanned Leather Band
Nezumi offers a brown or black vegetable tanned 20MM genuine leather band with their Loews chronograph. It is a comfortable band, requiring zero break in initially and fits nicely on my 6.75" wrist with its' custom polished moulded Nezumi buckle. I also enjoy the fact that it is a racing style band with its' perforated holes and slight taper.
Furthermore, the Nezumi Loews chronograph definitely stands out with its' retro pastel dial and design. You can tell the owner David did put a lot of time into custom designing the case, dial, and band to make sure that the end result really exudes something more than just a plain old chronograph. This watch has style, functionality, character, and definitely is something that can be used everyday in civilian clothing. What more can you ask for?
The two D1 Milano timepieces we have from Italian company D1 are pretty much housed in the same identical cases with different finishes, and the XRAY has a exhibition caseback while the P701 contains a solid steel caseback. The dimensions are very wearable at 41.5MM in diameter with a case thickness of a very slim 11MM. These dimensions fit very comfortable on my 6.5" wrist with ease and can definitely slip under a cuff if it were to be worn with a suit or shirt. Now, in terms of design these pieces generally take hints from watches such as the Patek Philippe Nautilus and contains some Royal Oak DNA in the integrated solid steel bracelet. However, when combined it happens to create a nice elegant and sporty everyday look at the same time which I found quite nice. The finishing is all brushed very smoothly on the P701 whilst the XRAY has a nice black DLC coating, giving it a stealthy and clean look. Some nice details include the polished sides of the stationary scalped bezels.
The P701 Dial is matte black with neatly applied brushed indices and a date cutout at the 3:00 position in black which matches the dial quite nicely. In terms of the XRAY - the dial features a nice skeletonized pattern with black hands and markers to match the chapter ring. It is definitely still legible, But I would not say it is as legible as the standard automatic P701. A nice detail is the black logo printing on the genuine sapphire crystal featured on the XRAY while the P701 boasts an AR coated Mineral Crystal. If there is one thing to improve here, at a pricepoint of $600+ USD - one nowadays really does expect a Sapphire crystal on a watch. Other than that, the dials are clean without any error or QC issues and can be read clearly.
Now, D1 Milano chose to go with Seiko made automatic movements which is a good thing. These movements are robust, tested, easy to function and maintain and last quite some years without a regular service interval from my many experiences with them. The P701 is rocking a standard NH35 caliber movement. This movement features 24 jewels - hand winding - hacking - and can hold up too 40 Hours of power reserve. They also are relatively accurate even when not regulated in the factory. My example is gaining around 4 seconds a day which is really good for a watch at this price point. The XRAY features a customized rotor and the rare Seiko NH70 movement. This is a time only movement and beats at the same 3 HZ ( 21,600 BPH ) as the P701. The power reserve is also a bit longer at around 44 hours which is pretty sweet for the end user. I do appreciate that they did go the extra mile and include some nice striping decoration on the NH70 as well as a nice exhibition caseback for a glimpse into the mechanics of the NH70.
Both of these models utilize the same exact integrated solid stainless steel bands. They are indeed comfortable and do not seem to pull hair from my arms which is good to see. I have not had an issue adjusting the links via standard push pins. The finishing is decent in a nice brushed finish while the clasp really stands out as well for me. The clasp is just really firm and snaps down with a nice feeling. This one definitely wont be coming loose while on wrist from what I can tell. The clasp also conforms perfectly without adding extra bulk which I do appreciate in terms of comfort. Overall, they are good bracelets for the pricepoint of the watch, and I do not see a problem here.
Furthermore, I believe D1 produced two quality timepieces with useable and reliable movements. It really checks all the boxes for me in terms of case cut and finish, solidness, and also a very robust feeling while still maintaining a rather classy yet sporty look which can be used in a number of dress situations.
Sternglas Zeitmesser based out of Hamburg, Germany has released their latest offering the Kanton - a nice take on a casual/dressy bauhaus designed swiss made marked automatic watch. I have taken a look at a few of their other releases in the past, and they are pretty much on point in terms of design and materials used for this sector of watches. The Kanton features nice and modern wearable dimensions of 39MM x 10MM thick with a nice highly polished solid 316L Stainless Steel case. The finishing is smooth and the lugs transition nicely to curve to the wrist which I found helped with comfort on my 6.5" wrist. If we flip over to the caseback we get a traditional screw in caseback with a nice exhibition window displaying the customized Swiss automatic caliber they chose to utilize in the Kanton. Overall, the case is very circular and plants flat on the wrist but bubbles up a bit which makes it easy to read the time at a flick of the wrist. Now, this is not a dive watch nor a field watch so 30M of water resistant with a pull/push crown is typical for this style of timepiece.
The dial is where we really see the German Bauhaus design come to life with its neatly small printed numerals and evenly placed lumed markers at 12-3-6-9 for legibility at night. The dial itself is a nice curved Satin silver finished colour. It really gives the watch a bit of a vintage bauhaus and classical look in my opinion, which personally I think fits the persona of the brand itself. Long evenly sized hands filled with green lume at the tips are a nice touch as well as the date window placed at the 6:00 position. I think a date was really needed here, and the watch would of been almost too plain without substance if they had not implicated a date window in white. Legibility is insanely good with a nice domed sapphire crystal featuring anti reflective coating...outside on a sunny day it almost seems the dial becomes even more legible. This watch does feature the "Swiss Made" marking so we can assume the movement was installed in Switzerland with Swiss hands and tuned for the least. Overall, it looks nice on the wrist and definitely can be worn with a suit or casually.
The movement is quite a stunning one, with its' custom Sternglas rotor and blued screws. This is the fossil group STP 1-11 which is becoming popular lately due to ETA production restrictions that are taking place. In my opinion, just as a Selitta SW200 - these are also swiss made and run just as good or equal as an ETA 2824. This one features 26 Jewels, 44 Hours of Power Reserve,Hacking and Hand Wind, as well as beautiful perlage work on the plates/geneva striping on the rotor. In terms of accuracy from this sample model I have gained an average of 3 seconds per day which is extremely good! These movements are robust, tough, and can last a lifetime if properly serviced every 5 years or so.
Genuine Italian leather was the choice here on this configuration supplied, and I am quite content with the comfort level and Quick-Release ends. The strap conforms nicely after a couple of wears and even features a nice slim and polished custom buckle. The brown really does match nicely with the silver dial and I honestly would not change it out, as it is indeed a good quality band.
Furthermore, this watch is definitely a step up from previous models produced by the Hamburg company and it does show they are willing to take things to the next level. It is a German designed Swiss Powered watch which kind of combines the best of both worlds in a little package. These watches are available immediately through the Sternglas webshop linked above and ship free with DHL worldwide, which is pretty sweet. RRP $904.
Today we will take a peek at the upcoming premiere launch of the Gin Clear Diver by Second Hour Watches - a new microbrand based out of Australia. The new Gin Diver features all those things we hope for in a rugged diver such as a solid 316L stainless steel case with dimensions that are wearable. This piece measures in at 41MM x 49MM x 12.5MM thick. The lug opening is 22MM which is pretty typical for a 41MM size case. The case has a rather smooth and nice brushed finish which sits and curves well to the wrist with its' downward slightly curved lugs. In terms of water resistance we are looking at a standard 200 Meters - which is essential to call this a true dive watch or a watch that you can actually take diving. The screw down signed crown is nicely protected with large crown guards and threads in and out with ease. Keep in mind there will be slight changes for the final models such as chamfered edges on the lugs, a light brushed bezel insert, drilled lug holes, and a greater crown length. If we head to the caseback the watch really comes to life with the beautifully crafted custom caseback which features a turtle with waves which is raised and executed with great precision and detail.
Now there are a few dial color options if you watched the video and even more if stretch goals are released. The Pastel blue is the color we have in hand today and it is quite stunning in person. It gives off nice hues of pastel to baby and light blue colors which matches nicely with the black ceramic 120 Click Lumed bezel. Nice details such as the large and legible multi-shaped applied markers and raised text at 12:00 and 6:00 give this watch a distinct and classy look. If I did not mention, the markers, hands, and bezel are filled with plenty of BGW9 lume which glows blue and is quite potent if you watched the video. ( More will be added on bezel ). The crystal featured of course is a genuine ar coated sapphire which keeps things legible in high light conditions ( one more layer added in production ). Overall, it is what a dive watches dial is supposed to be - legible - easy to read - and well proportioned.
This watch is powered by the trusty SW200 automatic Swiss Made caliber, and at a Kickstarter launch price of $385 I think this is what we should be getting. This movement contains 24 jewels, hacking, hand winding, and a 38 Hour power reserve. It is a movement that can last some years if properly taken care of every so often. In terms of accuracy it all depends, but I have found that most watches with Selittas are usually more accurate than off the shelf ETA 2824s.
The solid steel brushed bracelet is fitted with solid end links and tapers down to 18 at the clasp. It is a rather comfortable one with an H link pattern, screw links, and a custom clasp with 6 micro adjustments for precise fit. The links themselves are articulating which makes it easier to wear and mold to the wrist. It is a good quality bracelet I must admit and I do not believe any shortcuts were taken here. A nice detail in the clasp is the polished sides which do match the polished flanks of the Gin Clear bracelet.
Furthermore, I think for their first model from a new company with a Pre Order price below $400 for this style and spec is not a bad offering at all. The quality is definitely there as is the thought. I like that this watch represents a true dive/tool watch and at the same time I an picture myself wearing this dressed in a suit for work, or just casually wearing a pair of shorts on a hot summer day. It certainly is a versatile piece, and a very useful one that can be worn daily.
The case of the new successor by 94 is comprised of solid brushed stainless steel with dimensions of 40MM x 10.5MM tall. The style of this watch itself is kind of a Gerald Genta ish mixup between 94 and typical luxury genta designs, which is not a bad thing, just means you can buy something similar in aesthetic but also with the DNA of 94s designer. The brushing is decent and does not feature any sharp edges nor blemishes which I found quite nice at this $199 Pre Order price. Another good note is the 100M of water resistance which is a must for many watch buyers who know what water resistance actually means. This watch can definitely be used to swim with which helps many living in hot environments where water activities are the norm. The caseback is rather simple, screwed down - while the crown is pull and push signed with the 94 logo.
The dial is very symmetric which I appreciate without a date cutout. This black dial features applied legible C3 lume filled markers and long polished lume filled hands. The dial features a horizontal plank design which is seen in many luxury watches from Omega and such. I happen to like it and think it fits the watches personally just fine. We do get a nice flat sapphire crystal with inner anti-reflective coating which works wonders under the light and in the sun. Getting to the lume , the C3 glows just fine but do not expect seiko bright lume. However, for this type of watch, it is acceptable and the lume can still be utilized just fine. Some changes that may be taking place may be a Applied 94 logo instead of the printed one this dial currently has. Overall, it is extremely legible, versatile, meaning it can be worn in many situations from a suit to shorts.
The NH36 automatic movement is used in the successor, and for good reason. This movement features self-winding, hacking seconds, and very good accuracy. It is one of those movements that can go years and years without any issue. The movement contains 24 jewels and beats at 3HZ which equals 21,600 BPH for a smooth sweep of the seconds hand. This model itself is gaining around 5 seconds a day which is perfectly fine for me!
The bracelet had to be good on this model, because it is integrated. And the bracelet is sleek, curves nice to the wrist and features a real solid clamp down with the installed dual button butterfly clasp. The fluidity is also quite good and it curves nicely on my 6.5" wrist. Utilizing pins it is easy for any novice to adjust and seems sturdy enough for me. I think they did a good job on the bracelet which many brands going for this design fail at. The bracelet wears just as slim as the 10.5MM case without adding bulk - and I congratulate them for that.
Furthermore, I think 94 is onto something good here, and I do not see a reason why they should not be successful with the release of this model. I like all of the great specs for the $200 price, and you should too. I mean, it does check ALL of those boxes we watch nuts look for when searching for the best affordable watch we can get for our money...Best of luck to 94.
The Padua by Zampieri watch company based in Canada traces its' roots back to the owners Italian heritage and this most definitely is a traditional gentlemens dress watch by all aspects. The Padua puts many of those cheap fashion watch brands into their place with its' great specifications, movement, and build quality for not that much more money than some of those "other" brands. This watch is housed in an incredibly thin 6.5MM solid 316L steel polished case with a diameter of 39MM. The lug to lug distance measures in at 45MM and the lug width is standard at 20MM. The incredible thin steel case really surprised me the first time I put this watch on my wrist. It certainly can fit under a cuff and is meant to be a dress watch for sure. This definitely is a watch that can be worn to a formal event or a wedding whether suited in a tux or a fine suit. In terms of finishing, the high polish is neat and smooth to the hand while the caseback features a real screw in back and some specifications engraved. This watch really reminds me of the good old traditional dress watches from the 60s from big swiss houses such as Patek and others. Finally, the crown itself is pull/push with a 50M water resistance rating which is quite impressive for a timepiece of this dimension, so do not be afraid of getting caught in the rain!
The Enamel white dial is quite striking and very luxurious at first glance. It gives off a clean and good feeling whenever I glance down to read the time. This dial also features applied polished indices which are quite legible to me. The indices also match up quite nicely with the long dauphine style hands which remain polished as well. This is a time only watch with a time only movement, what a dress watch should be. The logo is printed in black below the 12:00 position and is quite bold but minimal at the same time. I think they did a good job keeping it quite symmetric and balanced, which I can appreciate. To top it all of we get a flat genuine sapphire crystal which sits quite flush with the case and gives it a more luxurious feeling.
Powering the Padua is the trusted and reliable swiss made ronda quartz 1062 caliber. This movement is a time only movement and features an incredible long battery life of six years. This is great for the end user because no watch collector enjoys changing batteries out every two years like some other Ronda calibers. Overall, it keeps great time as it should gaining a couple seconds a month and is as reliable as a movement can probably be.
Genuine Italian Leather Bands
Now, the 20MM Genuine Italian Full Grain Calf leather band definitely shows that Zampieri did not skimp out on any aspect of this watch as a total package. These straps are of the highest quality and are also vegetable tanned to top it off. They also feature a nice quick release function for swapping out straps quickly. However, being as this band is extremely supple and comfortable out of the box - I do not think you will be swapping out straps any time soon...
Furthermore, I see what Zampieri has done here and I can appreciate it from a watch enthusiasts perspective. They basically took a look at all those cheaply made mens dress watches that larger companies produce for dollars and created something of very high quality for a reasonable price. This is something that can be worn and enjoyed for a very long time. This is not "what's in" right now, this is a real mens dress watch. The watches specifications and luxury packaging definitely ticks all the boxes for me at this $365 pricepoint. This is a watch I can recommend to my readers who are on the hunt for a special timepiece for a special occasion, or an everyday work watch to pair with a suit. Thanks for taking the time to read and please do check out the full hands-on video on Watch Addiction Watch Review YouTube channel.
The main component of a mechanical movement is the mainspring, a spring that gradually unwinds and transmits energy. A mechanical watch will keep accurate time despite requiring winding up if it's manual. ... Inside an automatic watch sits a small weighted rotor that has to oscillate in order to wind the mainspring.