Available for Pre Order on Kickstarter Now
The all new Beaufort Aerotimer out of New Zealand is a mix of traditional pilot styled watches with World War II Era design cues. It is indeed named after the Bristol Beaufort Torpedo bomber which was utilized by British, Australian, and NZ forces. The watch itself comes in a few different flavors but I must say the Pastel light blue color dial is my favorite. It is a very well constructed watch and does not feel like it comes from a smaller brand or “Microbrand”. The 316L solid steel rose gold case measures in at 40MM x 11.5MM x 48.5MM. It features 20MM lugs and an excellent and useable 100 Meters of water resistance. The leaf like lugs are rather bold and really stand out when on wrist, while the thickness is actually quite thin for a swiss made automatic caliber. I like the neat exhibition sapphire caseback which is held down with real screws and done right. Overall, it feels good on the wrist and the finishing is very good in comparison to other timepieces at this price bracket of under $400 USD ( Kickstarter Pre-Order Price ).
The dial is probably the most beautiful part of the watch with its’ light pastel colour and traditional California dial layout. The California dial consists of half Romans and half Numerals. The sword style hands and applied indexes at 12-3-9 will feature BGW9 Blue lume which I think will look slick on this color dial. Everything is very legibile at a glance thanks to the Inner AR coated single domed sapphire crystal. Classical railroad tracks circle the outer portion of the dial marked with minute and seconds. There are a few different dial color options so I would suggest looking over all of them, as the white option really caught my eye as well. There was an alignment error on the prototype models at the 1:00 marker but no worries as the owner has told me this issue will be fixed on the production models.
Powering the Aerotimer is the trusted and reliable Swiss Made automatic Selitta SW200. I have tons of experience with this caliber and really enjoy its’ solid performance and reliability. The movement features a 38 hour power reserve, 26 Jewels, Hand-Wind, and seconds hand stop. My prototype model is keeping decent time at around +5 seconds per day, which is A OK in my book!
Full grain Italian Leather Band
The bands they have chosen are Genuine Italian leather quick-release straps equipped with a two button deployant clasp. In terms of comfort, they are soft, supple, and broken in out of the box. A nice detail is the double stitch on esch end which matches the 12/3/9 applied markers just fine. If I were to take the Aerotimer near water or in water I would probably throw it on a nice seatbelt NATO or canvas band...that
would look stellar.
Furthermore, the Aerotimer has certainly surprised me in terms of overall fit and finish. It IS a well made timepiece at a reasonable price and It
is no surprise they have surpassed their goal
already on Kickstarter. I like the clean aesthetic which is traditional and classical - yet slightly sporty at the same
time. It is definitely one that can be dressed up and dressed down for casual situations. I can certainly reccommend the Aerotimer by Beaufort and wish them more success in the future.
A very nice zip up pouch is included with the piece, as well as a NOVE polishing cloth..
The Craftsman model by Swiss brand NOVE features some unique technology and design cues. The case itself in this model measures in at 50MM in diameter and contains a thickness of 13.9MM. Now this is by no means a small watch but it does contain an integrated lug design which helps keep the size down a bit. The materials utilized are Stainless steel IP Blue and Ebony wood. This watch actually features 60 individually polished ebony and stainless steel parts. In terms of water resistance, we get a very nice 200M when the caseback is locked down - making it very suitable for water activities. Overall, it is a very unique looking timepiece and a lot of planning and thought went into designing and constructing such a sophisticated and modern timepiece as the Craftsman truly is.
Caseback Time Set - The best part!
The caseback really stands out due to its’ blue nature and neatly printed text. Here is where we can unscrew the “Crown” and set the hour and minutes by pushing down on the lever. Once your all set and done just screw it back down for the 200M of water resistance and your all ready to go! It is as simple as that!
The dial is a very light grey color and festures applied pip like markers for the hours. It is quite simple indeed featuring long luminous sword styled hands and a printed logo and “Swiss Made” at the 6:00 position. Topping all of this off is a genuine sapphire crystal with scratch resistance capability. A nice detail is the blue screws which hold the genuine ebony wood bezel in place. Overall, it is super clean and easy to read the time on this model - which is a refreshing take on a somewhat sporty case design.
The Craftsmans utilized a Swiss Made Quartz movement with a 6 year battery life. Most of you know these are extremely reliable and accurate as they should be. You have the luxury of setting the time without having to change it for some months - compared to an automatic calibre which will gain or lose a few seconds per day.
The Blue genuine leather integrated band is certainly bold enough to match the aesthetics of the case. It is also extremely comfortable and supple on wrist. A nice feature is the custom molded N blue IP plated steel buckle. It literally snaps write into place and sits firm on the wrist. The holes on the strap are firm enough so no
slippage is possible as well. I do hope though that they offer a Rubber strap variant in the future so I will be able to use it to its’ extent.
Furthermore, I have enjoyed spending my time
wearing the NOVE craftsman. It is definitely unique enough to stand apart from other brands, and is one that will draw attention. Although my favorite part of this piece is definitely the unique timeset caseback feature. I found it very easy to use and I really dont mind a watch without a crown that is going to dig into my wrist at odd angles. Thanks for taking the time to read and definitely do check out the youtube hands on review to see the Craftsman in action!
Timus watches has a new concept for watch enthusiasts coming this October to Kickstarter for $275 Early Bird. The brand itself is launching an automatic mens dress watch, and features quality components, but with a twist. Timus will update each owners watch as they release new styles. This will come with a price tag of roughly 25% of the timepiece. It is a way to have a new watch or two every year - with owning the same watch..
Packaging is not finalized and will be updated ***
Now there are two samples that were sent to me - one has a rose gold plated stainless steel case ( onion crown ) while the other has a straight steel case. In terms of specifications we are looking at 42MM ( Rose Gold Classic ) while the Steel model ( Timeverse ) is 43MM in diameter. The lug to lug distances are very close at 50MM for the classic and 51MM for the timeverse. They are both equally thick at 11MM and have a standard lug width of 20MM. Each watch contains 50M of water resistance which allows for a little play in the water and washing hands, but not something to really swim with. The front and back sides which gives a glimpse into the inner workings of the automatic Japanese calibre is fitted with a sapphire crystal. Overall, the finishing and high polished surfaces are smooth, without error nor no sharp edges. The watches themselves fit well on my 6.5” wrist with their modern, yet not overly large dimensions. I happen to like the Onion crown on the Rose Gold model a bit better than the more standard circular crown on the Timeverse model. Anyway, lets move on to the dials - because they are quite interesting and unique.
The dials are very different on each of these models, but still contain classic watchmaking DNA such as the applied Roman numerals on the Classic above. The off white model features skeletonization as the Timeverse below does as well. We get two subdials - one for a 24 hour scale and another for running seconds. The classic is certainly more dressy and formal than the Timeverse, so if that is what you are looking for id go for that model. There is superluminova on both models for legibility at night, and it does work. I like on the classic model that they added lume to the sub disls as well. The blue dal on the timeverse features a bright blue which gleams in the sun and has a slight sunburst effect which looks great. It also features small printed scales for precise timekeeping.
The movement they chose to utilize is one I am very familiar with and can say it is a reliable and robust movement which will run for many years without trouble. This is of course the Japanese Made Miyota 827S. It features hand winding, no hacking, 42 hours of power reserve 21,600 BPH - 21 Jewels - and a nice hollowed out rotor with striping on the mainplate of the movement which is visible through the sapphire caseback. In terms of accuracy you can expect around +7-10 seconds a day which is really good for a movement such as this one.
The straps are all made of real Genuine Leather and features signed Timus buckles. They also went ahead and utilized the ever so popular Quick-Release pins. This means you can change straps within a few seconds which is always a nice feature to have on a watch. The light blue one is very soft and supple while the brown embossed band is a bit rougher and will need a week or so to break in fully. They are both comfortable and of decent quality. I think they are suitable for this pricepoint and do not really see an issue here.
Furthermore, Timus has a very interesting concept and one that I havent seen before in my years of writing about watches and different brands. The fact that you can change the entire look of your watch ( they will
upkeep the movements also ) for a 25% charge is assuring and a nice luxury to have. We all know too well that sometimes we just get sick of a watch and want to flip it or buy something new - Now you have the ability to just send it back and spend a fraction of the price!
Buy a Seiko SKX Before it is too late!
There is certainty that the SKX will halt production and be replaced by the new line of Seiko 5 automatic watches which feature 27 different variations and 5 styles. However, keep in mind the original Seiko SKX models are still widely available via online outlets worldwide. I believe factories still do have a lot of stock built up over the years and there should be no need to fret over a drought! As a result of this speculation, the prices have definitely shot up by $30-$50 or so online and on eBay.
Same Case or Different? Specs...
The case dimension will remain the same as our usual SKX models but there have been some upgrades- and downgrades. First of all the new models will not feature a screw down crown nor 200M of water resistance. The new models will feature 100M of water resistance with a pull/push crown which are typically seen on most Seiko 5 models. A big upgrade is the addition of the 4R36 automatic calibre which features hand winding, hacking, and a decent power reserve of 40 hours or so. A big upgrade I was hoping for was a sapphire crystal instead of our typical hardlex crystal. Oh well, perhaps next time around!
Seiko 5 “Sports” Starting at $295 USD
Seiko 5 “Suits” Starting at $350 USD
Seiko 5 “Specialist” Starting at $300
Seiko 5 “Street” Starting at $335
Seiko 5 “Sense Style” Starting at $335 USD
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Case and Dial
The Orion features a uniquely shaped solid 316L stainless steel case with a ridged bezel and thin downward curved lugs for a nice comfortable fit on the wrist. This example, being Rose Gold is IP plated and i t came out pretty good from what I can see. There are no sharp edges nor blemishes on the smooth rose gold finish. The dimensions at 43MM by 15MM thick seem a bit large but actually wear just fine on my 6.5” wrist due to a shorter lug to lug length, and the lugs which protrude downwards for a smaller fit. Now, the gunmetal dial is actually executed very nicely and super neat. We can see some of the balance wheel from the front of the case which is covered by a genuine Sapphire crystal. In terms of legibility, I was also surprised how legible this piece was and that is due to the bold applied lumed markers which really pop out at you when you read the time. The lume itself is quite strong and lasts for some time, being it is SuperLuminova and has a greenish tone when glowing. However, do keep in mind that this watch only contains 3ATM or 30 Meters of water resistance - so certainly do not take it swimming with you. This is more of a casual/dressy piece in my opinion and can look good in many types of attire for different occasions.
The movement they went for is a Japanese automatic Miyota 85S0. This movement features a nice hollowed out rotor and some striping on the mainplate of the movement. It is also nice to see an exhibition caseback which displays the inner workings of this calibee utilized on the Orion. This calibre feaures hand winding, hacking seconds, 21 Jewels, and around 40 hours of true power reserve. In terms of accuracy, they are not too bad with my examples gaining around 8 seconds per day. Overall, it is a workhorse movement that will last for many years to come without servicing.
Genuine Leather Bands
The 22MM Genuine leather bands they have chosen are actually quite comfortable and easy to wear. A nice add on is the use of quick-release pins which allow the user to change bands within 30 seconds or less. I can see myself throwing one of these on a nice Nato strap for the summer season, or perhaps a nice black canvas band. Overall, for the pricepoint of this timepiece the straps definitely are suitable.
Furthermore, the Orion by Lord timepieces is certainly an interesting design and aesthetic - from its skeletonized dial and eye catching case finishes. It also is relatively affordable and has a good value at a price under $200. We get all of those specifications most of us watch geeks expect - such as Sapphire, an automatic Hackable movement, and decent fit and finish. I can definitely reccommend this one if you are looking for something completely different and out of the norm for your watch collection. Thanks for taking the time to read and please do check out the full hands on review via YouTube.
The all new Axios Ironclad is a sister brand of the famed ZELOS microbrand. It certainly features those great elements of quality and precision, but with simpler DNA. This watch will go live on Kickstarter August 19TH of this year, and I think it will do pretty good. The case itself is solid 316L stainless steel featuring a 3 Micron thick protective coating for hardness and durability. This is quite innovative and I believe the first microbrand to do so. In terms of dimensions, they are very wearable and modern at 40MM x 46MM x 13MM. The short lug to lug really helps it wear with ease on my 6.5” wrist - which I do appreciate. Now, the case is rated to 500M which is certainly suitable for diving and any water activity you will be doing whilst wearing your Ironclad. Getting to the finishing, it is decent with polished flanks and brushed tops/bracelet. The finishing is good enough for this pricepoint and definitely does not contain any sharp edges nor blemishes.
The blue sunburst dial on this “Horizon” example is quite striking at first glance due to its’ shine and luster in the sunlight. We also get large applied white markers filled with leaps and bounds of X1 C3 SuperLuminova...which is REALLY bright. Our hands are in orange to match the sweeping seconds hand as well as the ceramic bezel insert colors. The A logo for Axios is applied in polished silver, and quite small Id say. In terms of bezel action - the 120 Click Lumed Ceramic bezel is stiff, but not too stiff. It feels very tool like and has absolute zero backplay. It definitely adds some shine to the blue dial and plays nicely with it. Hovering the dial is a double domed sapphire crystal with inner anti reflective coating, so legibility in high light conditions will not be an issue. A small detail I did notice is the matching date wheel to the dial - kudos to Axios for doing that. Its the small things that count!
Powering the Ironclad is the standard Swiss Made automatic Selitta SW200 movement. It is quite a common one and is essentially the equivalent of an ETA 2824-2. It feature hacking-hand wind- and a smooth sweeping seconds hand which beats at 28,800 BPH. You can expect around +2-6 seconds on these Ironclads and around a 38 hour power reserve when fully wound. Overall, for the price I think this is the highest end movement one can source.
The oyster style bracelet is 20MM and tapers down to 18MM and is comprised of solid steel. It does feature screw links, so adjusting the links takes only a few minutes and you will be on your way. It also features a custom buckle and proper milled clasp which so many of us are accustomed to now in higher end microbrands. There are not any dive extensions but there are certainly enough micro adjustments to fit anyones wrist just fine. It is comfortable, doesn’t pull my hair, and has a nice smooth brushed finish just as the case. I do not have an issue with this bracelet, and you shouldn’t either.
In conclusion, when searching for a watch in the $400 price range, especially a diver) there are key elements I look for such as Sapphire-Swiss Movement-Bracelet-Lume- Bezel Action. This watch definitely ticks all those boxes for me and I believe the Pre Order price is where you should jump in on this one. I am actually sad I have to send this review unit back - because I genuinely had a really fun time test driving it. Thanks once again for taking the time to read.