The Turbulent is crafted from solid 316L stainless steel and features an interesting hand brushed finish monobloc design. The actual size of the case is 45MM in diameter and 11MM thick. The numbers definitely do not match up to how it wears - considering it fits me more like a 43MM timepiece once on the wrist. An interesting feature is the left side drilled lug holes which I honestly have never seen before, and found that interesting and refreshing. I like the fact that there is no other watch case on the market that resembles the Turbulent, making it truly a remarkable design. Overall, it is a dress watch but feels robust and durable as well. However, the case only has 50M of water resistance so I would not be swimming with this one.
The dial in the flesh is absolutely beautiful giving off hues of Brown. It is indeed a Sunray brown dial with an open heart cut out below the 12:00 position for a glimpse into the mechanics of the Turbulent. Applied polished numerals and hour markers surround the dial and are done very good in terms of finishing and perfect placement. A rather bold Bastian Antoni white printed logo hovers over the 6:00 position right above “Swiss Made” , allowing us to know that this is truly a Swiss Made timepiece by Swiss standards. At a pricepoint of $930 USD all of the goodies are included such as a double domed sapphire crystal with inner anti-reflective coating, and C1 SuperLuminova on the tips of the semi skeletonized hour and minute hands.
The Selitta SW-200-1 movement is used in the Turbulent which most of us watch enthusiasts are quite familiar with by now. These are the same movements used in most Oris timepieces and a few other Swiss brands. It is a 26 Jeweled swiss automatic movement featuring 38 hours of true power reserve, 28,800 BPH, hand winding, and a hacking function. With my exact model, I am experiencing around +5 seconds a day which is superb for this price range. The movement itself features some nice Perlage work and a custom Bastian Antoni rotor which really helps them stand out amongst its’ competitors.
The 22MM Genuine Leather band is quite supple and comfortable with embossed alligator print and contrast white stitching to match the print work on the dial. It does come equipped on a butterfly brushed clasp with branding and a very simple flip open easy adjust system. Honestly, It looks the part and is very comfortable on my wrist without a break-in period.
In conclusion, the Turbulent is definitely something we do not see a lot in the watch industry. It has its’ own unique design with a great set of specifications for under $1000. I think they did a decent job on putting this one together and cannot find anything honestly wrong with the timepiece itself. I do look forward to see what BA has to offer us in the future and congratulate them on what I think is a first successful release.
The Melbourne Flinders is no doubt a classic and elegant mens dress piece. It has all the characteristics of a true watch which can be dressed up, or even worn casually if you must. It also has rather pleasant dimensions at 40MM wide and an incredible slim profile of 9.8MM ( Yes , it will fit under a cuff ). I found the rose gold IP plating to be quite neat and smooth, with its brushed case sides while the lug sides remain polished for some pop. I believe the actual screw down caseback and lugs are one piece, whilst the circular case and smooth polished bezel are a separate piece. I found this to be quite interesting and unique as I honestly have never seen this type of construction. It is a relatively affordable piece at around $450 USD - but does contain all of the goodies including an AR coated sapphire crystal and exhibition sapphire back.
The dial is an off-white color which matches the Rose Gold well, and features two layers. If we head to the inner portion of the dial where there are white horizontal planks which resemble the deck of a fancy ship or yacht. Applied faceted indices are brushed on top and tipped off with a high polish which matches the polished smooth bezel nicely. It is rather a no nonsense dress watch with our bordered date window at 3:00 containing a white wheel to match the dial. I looked in a bit closer on a macro level at the print work below 12:00 and above 6:00 - to find no errors and neat script and standard writing. They have definitely done the rounds on these making sure perfection is implimented into each one of their timepieces. If you did not know Melbourne Watch Co actually hand assembles their models in Australia - making these basically an australian made timepiece...which is super cool. Lastly, the hands are blued for that traditional elegant look and definitely legibile with an “M” counter balance on the long sweeping seconds hand which reaches to the end of the dial ( Yes, I hate when companies use short hands - But No Worries here! )
Taking a look at the caseback we can see the Swiss Made automatic Sellitta SW-200-1 movement. I do have a lot of experience with this movement and it is essentially the same as an ETA 2824-2. It also contains hand winding, hacking, and 21 jewels - while boasting a decent power reserve of 38 hours. Small details such as the custom rotor are not really expected at this pricepoint , but kudos to them for going the extra mile. If you are an accuracy freak like me, I did record the timekeeping of this model and it is gaining around 2 seconds a day, which is truly outstanding.
Supplied Leather Band
A brown genuine leather 20MM band which contains Quick-Release spring bars comes standard on the Flinders. Straight out of the box it does conform to the wrist and fits quite comfortably on my 6.5” wrist. The buckle itself is signed with the “M” for Melbourne and features the same high polished rose gold finish we see on the case itself.
In conclusion, I think this is truly an undervalued watch. The watch itself is using a very good swiss automatic movement...it is actually assembled by hand in Australia...and comes in an interesting case with decent finishing. I do see a lot of microbrands of lesser quality and even lower grade movements charging upwards of $500-$600 with no real “Uniqueness”. Melbourne definitely has a winner on their hands with the flinders model and it seems it is quite successful as this is their Mark 2 version. I highly reccommend you check them out, and see what they have to offer. Let me finish this off by saying...It does not feel like a microbrand watch at all, rather from a swiss entry level luxury brand. Thanks for reading as always and stay tuned for more reviews.
The Stowa Klassik Flieger 40 is certainly a popular watch amongst us watch collectors and enthusiasts in this modern age. Although, Stowa was one of the original 5 Pilot watch manufacturers of the early 1900’s, especially during World War II. They are a German brand and based in the Black Forest region.
The case is finely brushed and smooth to the hand coming in at 40MM. The case thickness is rather thin at a really pleasing 10.2MM. In terms of lug to lug we are looking at 48.6MM with a lug width of 20MM. Since 1940, this clean and classic design has been put to use in the aviation sector of military - and now by normal folks like me and you. The clean classic matte black dial with our reference triangle located at 12:00 stays true to form, as well as the A style flieger layout. A nice touch is the heat treated blue hands utilized on their timepieces which is a proven lengthy process. The small onion crown located at 3:00 is Pull/Push allowing 50M of water resistance on the Klassik 40. Heading to the caseback we get a glimpse of the ETA hand wound mechanical Swiss Movement with custom finishing done in-house by Stowa, and it looks a bit more luxurious than your typical ETA movement.
The caseback is held down by screws and features a Sapphire window as the front does for a glimpse into the mechanics of the watch. Again, true blued screws are utilized on the actual movement itself as you can see from the photo above.
On the wrist the watch really wears nice, especially on my 6.5” wrist. It certainly hugs the wrist, and does not stick out at any odd angles. The genuine leather old style brown strap is super soft and supple out of the box and requires no immediate break-in period which I do take for granted..
For all you lume freaks out there...Yes the whole dial is lumed including the hands, seconds hand, and fine minute markings. C3 SuperLuminova is applied here and it seems to be quite bright and lasts a decent ammount of time as it should.
Furthermore, the Klassik Flieger is certainly a high quality watch with decent components under $1500 USD. It contains everything I want and expect in a Flieger for the money being asked. I do have to say, some of the other companies producing Flieger Type A and B watches have some tough competition because what STOWA produces in Germany, is an awesome all around product.
Egard is a watch company based in California and produces very unique and different watches differentiating itself from the crowd. Today, we will take a closer look at one of their newer models - The Gentlemans Warfare V1 Engraved Limited Edition
The GW is comprised of super tough AA coated 316L stainless steel, making this watch very tough and durable while keeping its style and flamboyant looks. The case is actually curved and sits well on the wrist with its oval figure. The basic specifications are 45MM across, with a slim profile coming in at 11MM thick. This watch does truly wear like a 45MM watch, so for extremely small wrists I would take a look at some of their other models. The finishing is brushed all around, including the small onion crown which is pull/push over at the 3:00 position. The crown functions with ease and one is able to get a firm grip on it to change the time. Now, the fun stuff - this version of the GW has a really beautiful paisley style engraving all around the case, and it is done well. There were certainly no shortcuts taken here and this is not a cheap process as well. Egards unique designs and layouts really allow them to stand apart from many of the other brands in this segment, which is something many strive for but can never reach. If we flip the watch to the screw on ( literally ) caseback, a small window displays the balance wheel at work which is a nice touch. Personally, I think a complete exhibitiom caseback just would not look right on this piece. In terms of crystal, Egard placed a curved sapphire over this interesting dial, which features anti-reflective coating.
The Black Striped dial is quite exciting and certainly out of the norm for what we usually see in a watch design. Egard has a way of implementing unique and rare design cues into their watches, which is a pleasure to see. There are two rotating discs - one marks the 24 hour sub dial with a pointed arrow while the other represents the continuous seconds. The large and bold cyringe atyle hands with a hollown circular center looks like something straight off of an instrument that used to keep time years ago. The open heart also displays the balance wheel of the automatic movement which allows you to get a glimpse into the inner mechanics of this timepiece.
The movement they decided to go with is the reliable Japanese Automatic Miyota 8S27.. This movement features 21 jewels and beats away at 21,600 BPH with an accuracy of around +10 seconds a day on my example. This is not an extremely complicated movement in the sense of watchmaking but it is rather robust, durable, and gets the job done with long term reliability.
Steel Bracelet / Genuine Leather Band
Two straps are supplied with this model which is nice to see and helps justify the $650 pricepoint a bit more in my eyes. The equipped stock 24/22 genuine leather band is brown with white stitching and a signed brushed buckle. I found this strap to fit comfortably around my 6.5 inch wrist straight out of the box with no issues. The second included is a brushed steel link bracelet with a decent and secure butterfly clasp. One thing I do like is how the straps fit directly into the case, so no end links are needed here for a clean fit.
Furthermore, my fellow watch addicts - The Egard LE V1 is certainly a wildcard watch and probably looks nothing like any watch you currently own. This is good in a sense because it allows you to explore different design and case shapes at an affordable price. Also, a huge plus is the paisley engraving around the case which you certainly will not find on todays market. With all this being said, I think it is an all around decent watch and kit for the money. I have also left a link to their webstore if you want to check them out. Thanks for reading, and see ya in the next one!
The main component of a mechanical movement is the mainspring, a spring that gradually unwinds and transmits energy. A mechanical watch will keep accurate time despite requiring winding up if it's manual. ... Inside an automatic watch sits a small weighted rotor that has to oscillate in order to wind the mainspring.